Active Ingredients

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

BENEFITS

SOURCES

Alcohol Denat.

ALCOHOL DENAT. Quick Facts: It's a super common and super debated skincare ingredient
It has several benefits: great solvent, penetration enhancer, creates cosmetically elegant, light formulas, great astringent and antimicrobial
It can be very drying if it's in the first few ingredients on an ingredient list

Geeky Details
 It's a controversial ingredient that has definitely many immediate skincare benefits.
So let's see first the benefits, why it's so often used. First, it is a great solvent. There are some ingredients that do not dissolve in water or oil and alcohol is often the way to go. Second, it's great at creating cosmetically elegant, fast absorbing, thin formulas. For example creating a nice, non-oily sunscreen is still a big challenge to the cosmetic industry (because sunscreen ingredients are yucky and oily) and alcohol can help with this problem. Third, alcohol is a great astringent, leaves a refreshing feeling on the skin so it's very popular as a toner ingredient. And last but not least, it's antimicrobial, helps to disinfect the skin so it is common in after-shaves or products intended for acne-prone skin. It even works as a preservative that is often used in natural products

incidecoder.com

Allantoin

Benefits of Allantoin for Skin Allantoin is multipurpose, multitask and with a full range of benefits. Below, eight ways allantoin can improve your skin.

• Moisturizes: Allantoin acts as an emollient that keeps your skin moisturized and prevents dryness and irritation.
• Soothes skin: Allantoin has the additional functionality of being a calming agent. It soothes and protects the skin by forming complexes with irritant and sensitizing agents
• Improves skin-healing: noted to help soothe injured skin and promote wound healing and is often used to treat skin irritation and rashes.
• Exfoliates: allantoin is also keratolytic, which means it exfoliates dead skin cells. , it helps desquamation, the shedding of the outermost membrane or layer of tissue from the inside out.
• Hydrates: keratolytic property can increase the water contents of cells, therefore, fighting against the damage of trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) in the dermis, which keeps the skin looking plump and youthful. "Think of it as almost the expansion of a sponge when wet, holding the maximum amount of liquid," she says.
• Improves skin dullness: Allantoin promotes cell proliferation and supports overall "remodeling,"  "If the skin is stressed by the usual and customary list of offenders, then the skin is going to try to repair itself as opposed to having more cells turn over. What we want to do with the epidermis is to have it constantly exfoliating itself and having more cells be produced because that’s how you get a faster transit time of the epidermal cells. As people get older, then that transit time from the base layer of the epidermis to the top layer takes longer and also the skin is stressed, and those are some of the causes of dull, dry skin, too. This is going to help with that cell proliferation."
• Smoothes skin:  removing surface dead skin cells (stratum corneum), it also helps keep the skin smooth and soft.
• Rejuvenates the cells: Although it's gentle, it can still be an effective anti-aging ingredient. Allantoin is highly beneficial in facilitating collagen synthesis, As it stimulates the fibroblasts (cells responsible for producing collagen), it also boosts extracellular matrix synthesis, which is why it is strong rejuvenator."

Side Effects of Allantoin:

In general, allantoin is non-toxic and safe for cosmetic use. It's non-irritating, it is a gentle anti-ager in skincare and is good for most skin types, including sensitive skin or those with a range of skin conditions, because it has the additional functionality of being a calming agent

Arginine

Arginine keeps your skin firm, plump and smooth. Arginine hydrates dry skin and restores moisture. Arginine is known for its anti-aging effects and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Arginine keeps your skin firm, plump and smooth. Hydrating, Anti-aging and anti-oxidant

Provenskincare

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Artemisia (mugwort) helps calm and soothe redness on the skin while also healing acne/breakouts. It is also packed with Vitamin A (great for skin renewal and regeneration) and vitamin C (a skin brightening and protecting ingredient) It is beneficial  for combination and oily skin. In Korea, mugwort is used for anti bacterial . anti fungal and skin protective properties. To put it simply, mugwort is a weed. It's a weed that's absinthe adjacent, though. Artemisia, it's genus, also includes wormwood, which is a key ingredient in the hallucinogenic, green elixir. In Korea, mugwort is regarded as a healing herb for its antibacterial, anti-fungal, and skin-protective properties. Thanks to its soothing, anti-inflammatory properties, mugwort targets dry, irritated skin effectively.  vitamin E as a component of mugwort, and which helps skin retain moisture. Mugwort can also relieve redness on skin.

allure.com

Betaine

BETAINE. Primarily functions as a humectant and anti-irritant in cosmetic products. The small polar molecules of this ingredient are prone to hydrogen bonding (AKA interacting with water), which in turn gives it the ability to retain moisture. It's able to give superior hydration to the skin, without the residual stickiness often associated with glycerin based emulsions. When used in skin care products, it can temporarily decrease the depth of wrinkles, giving the face a much smoother appearance. Its specific molecular structure is also responsible for giving it unique solvent powers and  sensory properties, such as a silky and smooth feel. Its silk effect Anti-inflammatory

• Betaine has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties against erythema and skin irritations. It is often used in skin for its anti-inflammatory properties.
• Humectant
• Betaine has humectant properties and is used in some skincare formulations to hydrate the skin and increase water retention
• Anti-aging
• Some studies have suggested that Betaine assists with anti-aging and skin protection against action of oxidative free radicals

the SKINCARECHEMIST

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol
Methoxyphenyl Triazine[SUNSCREEN]

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine is worth recognizing it as it is one of the best sunscreen agents known today. It is a broad-spectrum (covers the whole UVB and UVA range, 280-400 nm) chemical sunscreen agent with peak protections at about 310 and 345 nm and unlike older UV filters, it's very photostable. It hardly deteriorates in the presence of UV light and it's also useful in stabilizing other less stable sunscreen agents, like the famous UVA protector, avobenzone.

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice – Birch Sap

Not only it is loaded with skin-loving nutrients, but it is also more hydrating than water for skin due to its tiny molecules which allow the skin to absorb better. It helps to prevent moisture loss from your skin while maintaining a positive oil-moisture barrier.

themeekah.de

Butylene  Glycol

BUTYLENE GLYCOL. Humectant, solvent, and emollient. Retains moisture, dissolves ingredients, and improves application.

It effectively moisturizes their skin. Butylene glycol is safe for daily use. As a solvent, butylene glycol works well with ingredients that are not water-soluble and are difficult to dissolve. Butylene glycol works well with most, if not all, ingredients.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green Tea)

Provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, which may help to soothe and calm the skin while also providing protection against collagen degradation and skin discoloration. Anti Aging and Soothing

Skin Better

Centella Asia Tica Extract [Cica] Gotu Kola

They’re meant to calm irritated skin - red, dry sensitive skin. It calms inflammation, improves skin hydration, quickens the production of collagen. It is also shown to lessen acne and speed up healing of wound. Strengthens the skins barrier for a healthier looking skin. Considering the potential for centella asiatica to bolster collagen production, it’s not surprising that there has also been some interest in using it to manage signs of aging, such as fine lines and photo damage. Combined with vitamin c significantly reduces the sign of aging 

self.com

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Texture enhancer. It's a petroleum derived emollient and thickener. It often comes to the formula as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio (with Polyacrylamide and Laureth-7). This trio is an easy-to-use liquid that helps to create nice, non-tacky gel formulas. 

incidecoder.com

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that functions as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and surfactant in a variety of cosmetics and skincare products. Cetyl alcohol is an organic compound that is classified as a fatty alcohol. Fatty alcohols are a hybrid between alcohols and fatty acids or oils. There is often a misconception that because it has alcohol in its name that cetyl alcohol is drying to the skin. The reality is actually the opposite. Cetyl alcohol helps to protect the skin from allergens, bacteria and moisture loss and improves the texture of products. Helps to improve the texture of formulations, protect the skin from moisture loss and reduce the ability of allergens and bacteria to affect the skin. cetyl alcohol is not an alcohol in this sense. Cetyl alcohol is a hybrid of alcohols and fatty acids or oils and actually help to keep the skin moisturized and plumped.

dermreview.com

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Very clenasing and great for getting rid of dirt and grime. It is derived from coconut and it is very hydrating

brydie.com

Corn Kernel Extract

Helps reduce oxidative stress that occurs in the skin. Helps retain skin purity

Cyclohexasiloxane

Primarily works as a skin conditioning agent and emollient.  When applied to the skin, it gives a silky & slippery feeling to the touch and acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin. It can also fill in fine lines/wrinkles, giving the face a temporary “plump” look. A light-feeling, volatile (meaning it does not absorb into the skin but evaporates from it) that gives skin a unique, silky and non-greasy feel. It has excellent spreading properties and leaves no oily residue or build-up. 

truthinaging.com

Cyclopentasiloxane

Silky slippery feel and a conditioning agent. Although cyclopentasiloxane has minimal benefits specific to the skin, it does have notable sensory properties and also helps in how the product functions.

Evaporates quickly.
Is lightweight: Particularly lightweight and used when a lighter feel is desired. Provides a nice feel to the skin.
Seals hydration: Cyclopentasilxone forms a seal or barrier on the skin. This barrier protects against trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), which can lead to inflammatory conditions. 

brydie.com

Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract [Lemon Grass]

skin sensitizer. Skin conditioning, soothing

Dibutyl Adipate

It also acts as lubricant on the skin surface, which gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance, and as a solvent. A clear, colorless, odorless oily liquid that makes the formula easily spreadable and also makes the skin nice and smooth (emollient). It's especially helpful in sunscreens as it can help to solubilize UV filters.

incidecoder.com; cosmeticsinfo.org

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl
Hexyl Benzoate

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate is a UV filter with high absorption in the UV-A range.

go.drugbank.com

Dimethicone

brydie.com

Dimethiconol

A thick, high molecular weight silicone that is usually diluted in another, lighter silicone fluid (like dimethicone or cyclopentasiloxane). The dimethiconol containing silicone blends leave a silky smooth, non-greasy film on the skin.

incidecoder.com

Dipropylene Glycol

Texture enhancer. A clear, colorless liquid that works as a solvent and viscosity decreasing ingredient. It also has great skin-moisturizing abilities. Humectant and carrier for cosmetic ingredients. It is an effective solvent and coupling agent and its use can improve freeze/thaw stability of cosmetic emulsions. DPG is the solvent of choice for fragrance applications due to its low odor, low toxicity and low skin irritation potential.

lotioncrafter.com; incidecoder.com

Dipotassium Glycerrhizate

Skin-conditioning ingredient that can improve the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate has a soothing effect on the skin and is thought to help support the calming of inflammation in the skin. Soothing, Fades Dark Spots and Anti-Oxidants

The derm review

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate or Octinoxate is used in products that are applied to the skin to absorb, reflect or scatter UV rays. This serves to protect the skin from sunburn as well as other damaging effects of the sun. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate also protects cosmetics and personal care products from deterioration caused by UV rays. When used to protect the product, this ingredient is called Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate) can help protect against sunburn and other skin damage caused by UV light by absorbing UV radiation. A clear, oil-soluble, "cosmetically-elegant" liquid

cosmeticinfo.org; incidecoder.com

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Ethylhexyl palmitate is an ingredient that is used to improve the texture, feel, and the scent of skincare and cosmetic products. It functions as an emollient, solvent, and fragrance fixative. 

dermreview.com

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Sunscreen filter. TEA-Salicylate (also known by its FDA-required sunscreen active ingredient name Trolamine Salicylate) is the Triethanolamine salt of Salicylic Acid (sometimes called a beta hydroxy acid [BHA]).

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?
TEA-Salicylate, is used as an ultraviolet light absorber to protect cosmetics and personal care products from deterioration by UV rays.  TEA-Salicylate is also an FDA-approved over-the-counter active sunscreen ingredient. Also known as 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, salicylic acid occurs naturally in the bark of the willow tree and, methyl salicylate is present in wintergreen leaves, Gaultheria procumbens, and in sweet birch bark, Betula lenta. Salicylic acid is probably best known as a compound that is chemically similar but not identical to the active component of aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid).

cosmeticsinfo.org

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Ethylhexyl Triazone is an organic compound that absorbs ultraviolet (UV) light.

Ethylhexyl Triazone is an approved UV filter, this ingredient can be added to sunscreen products that are designed to protect the skin from the sun.

 Ethylhexyl Triazone can be used as a UV light absorber. In this case, the ingredient serves to protect the product from deterioration by absorbing, reflecting or scattering UV light.

Scientific Facts:
Ethylhexyl Triazone is sometimes referred to as Octyl Triazone. It is a broad spectrum UV absorber, absorbing UVB as well as UVA rays. UV radiation is an important cause of premature aging of the skin and in the development of melanoma and other forms of skin cancer.

cosmeticsinfo.org

Fig Fruit Acid

The nutrients and vitamins found in figs help balance sebum production, skin melanin, prevent epidermal water loss and more. This increases hydration and keeps the skin free from wrinkles and premature aging. When applied topically, figs can reduce the appearance of wrinkles by promoting collagen production

bebeautiful.in

Glycerin

Glycerin is great for the skin because it acts as a humectant, which is a substance that allows the skin to retain moisture. It can increase skin hydration, relieve dryness, and refresh the skin's surface. It's also an emollient, which means it can soften skin. After you apply glycerin, the magic happens deep inside the skin. Once it's absorbed, it can get to where it's needed, replenishing the moisture your skin loses. Glycerin is a highly effective humectant that keeps your skin hydrated for a long duration. It is non-comedogenic, non-allergenic, and naturally derived from mostly plant sources.

1. Moisturizes Skin- Using glycerin can improve the skin’s moisture levels. (1) It attracts moisture from the environment and traps it in your skin to make it appear healthy, soft and hydrated. (2)
2. Protects And Heals- Glycerin protects the skin against irritants and external pollutants. It also helps in healing of wounds. (3)
3. Anti-Aging Properties- Glycerin can slow down the aging process of your skin and keep it firm and wrinkle free for a longer period.
4. Repairs Skin Barrier- Glycerin, when used with hyaluronic acid, functions as a skin barrier repairing and protecting agent.

healthline.com; skinkraft.com

Glyceryl Stearate

Softens and hydrates skin. Glyceryl Stearate acts as a lubricant on the skin's surface, which gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance. It also slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin's surface. Glyceryl Stearate, and Glyceryl Stearate SE [self-emulsifying] help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified. Self-emulsifying means that the ingredient mixes the oil and water-based ingredients together more easily.

cosmeticsinfo.org; dermreview.com

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid peels are effective for removing blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples from skin. They also help to reduce pore size. Consistent and repeated use of glycolic acid peels have been shown to be effective for removing cystic lesions and acne scars from skin. Glycolic acid peels are resurfacing treatments that removes the top layer of the skin, revealing the smoother, younger skin underneath. They’re commonly used to treat acne, reduce the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and lighten hyperpigmentation or skin discoloration. Though often effective, glycolic peels can be irritating and involve recovery time.

healthline.com

Hexyl Laurate

an emollient that makes skin soft and smooth. It is an ester made when hexyl alcohol and lauric acid are combined (Source).

beautifulwithbrains.com

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Hordeum vulgare seed extract is rich in phenols and flavonoids, which are both known to provide antioxidant activity. Antioxidants protect the skin from free radicals, which are highly reactive species that are known to cause damage to the skin, resulting in premature signs of aging. When topically applied, hordeum vulgare seed extract can be used to maintain overall skin quality and reduce signs of aging.

dermreview.com

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is an antiwrinkle and pigmentation-fighting ingredient found in over-the-counter (OTC) and professional-grade skin care products. Derived from milk, lactic acid belongs to a class of anti-aging ingredients called alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). Other examples of AHAs include glycolic acid and citric acid. Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that’s essentially sour milk used to produce smooth skin and balance your skin’s PH level. It lightly exfoliates by dissolving dead skin cells. A lactic acid chemical peel is a technique that uses a chemical solution to improve and smooth the texture of the skin by removing its damaged upper most layers. It is used for the mildest, most gentle of chemical peels.

healthline.com Brydie.com. Lloyd-derm.com

Laureth-7

an emulsifier and/or surfactant. Comes from a coconut oil derived fatty alcohol, lauryl alcohol.

incidecoder.com

Lavender

Lavender oil works to kill bacteria, and this can prevent and heal acne breakouts. It unclogs pores and reduces inflammation when you put it on your skin. Targets surface bacteria.

Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit
Extract

Acerola Fruit extract is superior in Vitamin C content. Antioxidant property of vitamin C gives skin protection against free radical damage, delays skin aging. It boosts collagen production, enhances and even skin tone.
Acerola fruit extract also contains various minerals in their salt form, which replenishes skin’s depleted mineral content, this salt attract moisture and as a result skin’s ability to retain moisture greatly improves.    What is Acerola?
Acerola (Malpighia glabra, M. emarginata) is a tree native to the West Indies. Also found in northern South America, Central America, Texas, and Florida, it is a small shrub or tree that has 5-petaled flowers ranging from pink to white in color. The fruit of the Acerola tree is bright red and cherry-like containing several small seeds. When ripe, the fruits are soft and pleasant tasting, containing about 80 percent juice.

Acerola Benefits
The Acerola fruit are considered to be excellent sources of vitamin C, exceeding the vitamin C concentration of oranges. They are also a good source of other nutrients including B vitamins, calcium, iron, bioflavonoids, phosphorus, malic acid, pantothenic acid, potassium, and magnesium.
Most of the skin benefits associated with acerola come from its high vitamin C concentration. These include:
Antioxidant action to protect against free radical damage that can accelerate skin aging
Ability to even skin tone and brighten skin
Boosting production of collagen and elastin
Increasing the ability of skin to retain moisture
As well, acerola contains mineral salts, which has shown to aid in the remineralization of tired and stressed skin. And, it’s demonstrated benefit in increasing the hydration of skin.

Look for acerola in a range of skin care products including formulations to help protect against free radicals, skin lightening solutions as well as moisturizers.

pharmix.com

Malt Extract

Protects Skin

Myristic Acid

Niacinamide

Tightens and smooths pores. Brightening, prevents signs of aging, reduces acne. Niacinamide helps build keratin which makes your skin firmer and healthy. It reduces inflammation and reduces pores/size appearance. Niacinamide helps both dry oily skin by helping to retain moisture and regulating the amount of oil production. A concentration of 5% to 2% is ideal and equally effective for skin with melanin. Lover concentrations are  better because products with higher concentrations often leads to more irritations, sensitivity, hyperpigmentation and even burns. best to avoid percentages over 5%.     

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B-3, an essential nutrient.  Taking niacinamide can help prevent B-3 deficiency.

There’s much more to this nutrient, especially when it comes to general skin health. Although more research is needed, topical niacinamide may help treat certain skin conditions, including acne and eczema.

Read on to learn more about its benefits, what to look for in products, and more.

Is this the same thing as niacin?
Despite the similarities in names, niacinamide isn’t the same thing as niacin. They’re two different types of vitamin B-3.

However, your body can make niacinamide from niacin supplements you’ve taken. This happens when there’s an excessive amount of niacin in the body. Tryptophan in the body can also be converted into niacinamide.

You should always talk to a doctor before taking vitamin B-3 or other supplements.

What benefits does niacinamide offer?
Overall, niacinamide can help build proteins in the skin and lock in moisture to prevent environmental damage.

Individual benefits include:

• Immunity- Niacinamide helps build keratin, a type of protein that keeps your skin firm and healthy.
• Lipid barrier- Niacinamide can help your skin grow a ceramide (lipid) barrier, which can, in turn, helps retain moisture. This is beneficial for all skin types, especially if you have eczema or mature skin.
• Minimizes redness and blotchiness- Niacinamide reduces inflammation which may help ease redness from eczema, acne, and other inflammatory skin conditions.
• Minimizes pore appearance- Keeping skin smooth and moisturized may have a secondary benefit — a natural reduction in pore size over time.
• Regulates oil- The benefits of moisture retention aren’t just for those with dry skin types. Niacinamide can also help regulate the amount of oil the sebaceous glands produce and prevent your glands from going into overdrive.
• Protects against sun damage- Niacinamide can concurrently rebuild healthy skin cells while also protecting them from damage caused by ultraviolet rays.
• Treats hyperpigmentation- Some research has found 5 percent niacinamide concentrations can be helpful in lightening dark spots. Benefits were seen after four weeks, but not beyond two months. This benefit may be due to increased collagen production.
• Minimizes fine lines and wrinkles- Research has also found that the same concentration was helpful in reducing some signs of sun damage that come with aging. This includes fine lines and wrinkles.
• Protects against oxidative stress- Niacinamide helps build cells in the skin while also protecting them from environmental stresses, such as sunlight, pollution, and toxins.
• Treats acne- Niacinamide may be helpful for severe acne, especially inflammatory forms like papules and pustules. Over time, you may see fewer lesions and improved skin texture.

healthline.com

Octyldodecanol

Octyldodecanol has several jobs in skincare products:

• Anti-foaming: It helps reduce the tendency of products to foam when they’re shaken.
• Emollient: It makes skin silky soft to the touch.
• Emulsifier: It helps keep formulas together, preventing the oily and watery parts from separating.
• Texture-enhancer: It gives the textures of skincare products a better slip, so they can glide smoothly on the skin.
• Solvent: It’s rarely used for this, but it can dissolve other skincare ingredients. It makes the skin feel nice and smooth

beautifulwithbrains.com

Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract (Prickly Pear)

Highest source of Vitamin E. Boost skin health. Contains antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Great for acne prone skin and effectively and naturally hydrates and nutrient filled natural extract.

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract

Skin softening and a chelating ingredient. A by-product of milling rice. Rice bran is a rich source of 100 antioxidant compounds, such as vitamin E, ferulic acid, oryzanol, omega acids, micronutrients like calcium, selenium, phosphorous, iron and zinc. Skin Moisturization
Anti-Inflammatory, Skin Soothing
Antioxidant Activity    Oryza Sativa is a technical term used for rice. Rice bran hydrates skin and helps it retain moisture, resulting in softer, smoother skin. It is a fast absorbing oil that is not tacky or oily. Rice bran oil is said to boost skin’s natural regeneration process and nourish skin cells with vitamins and antioxidants. It is said to improve overall complexion, even out the skin tone and rejuvenate dull looking hair, making locks shinier and healthier looking.

essentialsbycatalina.com

Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)

Hydrating, Soothing. Binds to and holds water in the skin, moisturizing and leaving it soft, smooth, and more supple. It also has anti-inflammatory properties and is involved in activating the proliferation of cells that are important for wound healing and restoring the function of the skin barrier.Good for all skin types, and particularly those with dry or flaky skin.

Brydie

Pathenyl Triacetate

Improves the function of skin protective barrier. Evens skin tone and lightens dark spots. Medical research has shown that panthenol has been effective against UV-induced redness and irritation. Panthenol works as a skin protectant that reduces itchiness and irritation caused by external stimuli. It is also a well-known fact that it can also soothe your skin by attracting water.

Wish trend, Lamav

Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract (Mung Bean)

Nourishing, and produced by a cold molecular process that shows strong, soothing and anti-aging properties. Strengthens skin with strong anti-aging ingredients

Icm-group

Polyacrylamide

Forms a thin costing over skin which aids in moisture absorption and retention. Texture enhancer binder and film former, and fixative . 

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose
Distearate

Texture enhancer and emollient

Polysorbate 60

Emulsifier and wetting agent

Propylene Glycol

Nest to water, this is the most common moisture-carrying vehicle used in cosmetic formulations. It has better permeation than glycerin, and it also gives a pleasant feel with less greasiness than glycerin. Propylene glycol is used as a humectant because it absorbs water from the air. Is also serves as a solvent for properties against bacteria and fungi when used in higher concentrations.

Resveratrol

Calms inflammation and reduces dark spots/targets hyperpigmentation. Protects skin against uv damage and prevents pigmentation

Rice Ferment Filterate – Sake

Dramatically improves skin natural rejuvenating process. Brightens and beautifies skin

Sesame Seed Extract

 Fights acne and acne scars.

Snail Secretion  Filtrate

It has moisturizing properties that support the skins barrier and helps lock in moisture. It also stimulates collagen production and helps lessen fine lines, wrinkles and gives Dewy and glowing skin.   "chemically speaking, snail slime is a complex mixture of proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans, glycoprotein enzymes, hyaluronic acid, copper peptides, antimicrobial peptides and trace elements including copper, zinc, and iron."   English translation equals it's loaded with a bunch of good-for-the-skin stuff. Benefits of Snail Mucin for Skin
Snail mucin is a mega multi-tasker, with the ability to do everything from moisturize to boost the production of collagen, the protein responsible for glowing, dewy, strong, youthful skin.
Moisturizes the skin: snail mucin contains moisturizing agents that work to repair the barrier function of the skin, both locking out irritants from the environment while also simultaneously locking in moisture.
Stimulates collagen production: “Because snail mucin is a stress-induced excretion, it's comprised of ingredients meant to repair or protect from injury, These include growth factors, which work by triggering the growth of new skin cells and new collagen.” And, as we know, more collagen equals fewer wrinkles and younger-looking skin. it also contains glycolic acid, another known collagen-booster.
Soothes irritation: Allantoin is another key component in the secretion, an ingredient with healing properties that calms irritation, as well as smooths the skin and stimulates cell regeneration.
Delivers important vitamins and minerals:  Snail mucin is loaded with a list of good-for-your skin nutrients, including anti-inflammatory zinc and healing manganese. It contains copper peptides, also lauded for their collagen-increasing and wrinkle-decreasing effect, as well as vitamins A and E, both of which are great antioxidants.

Sodium  Chloride

astringent

Sodium  Hyaluronate

Difference between Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate offer many of the same benefits and are ultimately counterparts of each other. Both are hydrating and plumping and are used for anti-aging purposes

BENEFITS OF BOTH

Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is synthesized to create a smaller molecular structure for stability and increased resistance to oxidation. Its smaller molecular structure and water solubility means that it can penetrate deeper into skin, providing intense hydration beyond the skin’s surface.

Sodium hyaluronate is usually used for anti-aging and moisturizing because of its ability to improve firmness levels, smooth out fine lines, and hydrate the skin. You can find sodium hyaluronate in many products, including serums and moisturizers. It is also possible to take it as an oral supplement.

What is the primary difference between hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate?

The BIGGEST difference?

Sodium hyaluronate has a smaller molecular size, which means that it can penetrate the skin better. Other than that, they both offer the same benefits.

Now that we’ve covered the ‘what’, let’s take a closer look at what these powerful ingredients can actually do:

Benefits of hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate

Firmer skin- Apply a product with sodium hyaluronate or hyaluronic acid to your skin and its impressive water-binding properties will enable it to sink deep into your skin to absorb and retain moisture. Many makeup brands add one or both ingredients to their primers; because HA retains moisture so well, it makes skin look instantly plumper and more supple.

Reduced fine lines- and wrinkles As sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid amplify skin hydration, skin regains a youthful plumpness and fine lines and wrinkles become less visible. Skin that is deeply moisturized is also much less likely to develop wrinkles in the long term.

Along with applying adequate sun protection, applying a moisturizer is one of the key ways to combat signs of aging. Hyaluronic acid can help boost moisture levels, helping skin to appear more hydrated and youthful.

Gentle and non-comedogenic- Is your skin on the sensitive side? You can use sodium hyaluronate or hyaluronic acid skincare products without worrying about irritation. Both ingredients work for all skin types and are non-comedogenic, which means you can enjoy their benefits without having to worry about clogged pores.

If you suffer from acne-prone skin, you can turn to a sodium hyaluronate or hyaluronic acid moisturizer without worrying about it leading to further breakouts. In fact, ensuring that your skin is deeply moisturized can even help prevent future breakouts as dry skin tends to overproduce oil which can result in a vicious breakout cycle.

Both are exceptional at retaining moisture

Hyaluronic acid is famous for its ability to retain water, as is its synthesized salt counterpart, sodium hyaluronate. Both can hold up to 1000 times their weight in water, making them an excellent choice if you’re looking for a product to boost hydration while retaining natural moisture in the skin.

 Source: pharmagel.net/

Soybean Ferment Extract

Helps skin regeneration and collagen production

Soybean Seed Extract

Plant extract , anti-aging, hydrating and evens skin tone

Stearic Acid

Helps to wash away excess oil and dirt from the skin. Stearic acid attracts dirt and oils and allows them to be rinsed from the skin and it is naturally found in verious plants

dermreview.com. Howstuffworks.com

Willow Bark (Natural Salicylic Acid BHA Extract)

Salicylic acid is available over-the-counter for acne, as a cleanser or lotion. It helps remove the top layer of damaged skin. Salicylic acid dissolves dead skin cells to prevent your hair follicles from clogging.

Cleveland clinic

Yeast Extract

Very Calming for Skin. Revitalizes the skin with moisture , fights dryness and gives skin a  radiance appearance. Able to minimize sun burn and wind-chapped skin. Restore the comfort of soft elastic and healthy skin, reduce facial lines and improve dry skin.

Milady

 other sources: munskin, healthline, Healthline, Bareminerals uk